Cranes own the title, “The Birds of Heaven” for good reason. Amidst the frosty January sun, the sight of a solo Black-necked crane feeding off the Yunnan wetlands had seemed almost magical. A vision realised. An earlier visit in the autumn of 2008 had left me with a desire to return when these birds migrate south from the harsher winter clime of the Tibetan highlands to the more hospitable plains of Lake Napa.

My journey to wintery Yunnan was in search of the mystical. For centuries, human societies have revered the crane in many ways. This bird has long been a symbol of longevity and fidelity to the local Tibetan population. The general Asian perception of this winged animal includes good fortune and spiritual enlightenment. That is a lot to live up to but perhaps no effort for the bird bestowed by the Chinese to be the prince of all feathered creatures on Earth. I braced myself for a potentially regal experience.

Journey to Shangri-La

My journey began from Lijiang, where I bundled myself at the back of a local bus for a four hour journey to Zhongdian County. Zhongdian County, in an effort to promote tourism, was renamed in 2001 as Shangri-La. A term now commonly equated as an earthly paradise. The original Tibetan population however refers to this county by its traditional name, Gyalthang, which translates to ‘Royal Plains’. In any case, a fitting place for a prince, I thought to myself.

Zhongdian County sits 3200m above sea level. At this altitude, you would expect an earthly paradise with majestic views of snow-capped mountains, blessed with the bounty of evergreen forests, the serenity of alpine lakes and grassland. It did not disappoint. Amidst the crisp cool mountain air and the beauty of the outdoors, I found the tranquillity of Tibetan Buddhist temples. The fusion of these two worlds was seamless if not complimentary. The possibility of the mystical had seemed within reach.

Lake Napa

I set base in Zhongdian city and with my hired driver headed to Lake Napa where the Black-necked crane awaited. Lake Napa, which becomes a winter refuge for these birds of heaven, is just a fifteen minute drive from the tourist bustle of the old town of Zhongdian. The lake spans over 23 sq km with mostly flat terrain. This wide plain plays host to different animals over the course of seasons. Over spring and summer, the melted mountain snow flood the plains into a marshy wetland. This season becomes a playground for the different species of Geese, Egret, Merganser, White-tailed Eagle and the Himalayan Griffon. Autumn sees the grounds dry out, morphing into grassland, attracting livestock to feed. Despite the changing landscapes, seasonal guests feed in safety, surrounded by mountains and a tolerant human population.

Birds of Heaven

In the bitterly cold months of winter, these vast plains of Napa receive the revered birds of heaven. The Black-necked cranes come to Lake Napa to feed on buckwheat and oat during and after the autumn harvest period. Cranes are naturally wary but here the birds feed freely. For centuries now, the cranes have managed to make their transitional stop in winter here in Napa undisturbed, existing harmoniously with the Tibetan population before returning to their summer breeding grounds in April.

Cultural Values

Here communities are guided by its spiritual and religious values. The Black-necked cranes hold a special place within this community where Tibetan Buddhism is the primary religion. The faith believes that every animal possess a soul waiting to be reincarnated into human and hence should be treated with kindness. Here the Tibetan community celebrates, respects and loves the cranes.

Religious values and human perception have done well to serve in the favour of these vulnerable birds. In addition, an initiative by the government to compensate for land damage caused by the crane’s grazing, manages possible human-animal conflict. Regardless, the reason, it was liberating to see wildlife and people coexisting peacefully.

Frozen Beauty

Winter mornings on Lake Napa were blisteringly cold. Thick ice caked the wetland. The Black-necked cranes stood on the edge of the frozen lake, families huddled together, waiting for the sun to rise. Seated on the ground, I was anxiously waiting for the same. Yet despite the cold, it’s hard not to be overwhelmed by the beauty of it all. The crisp air was sometimes painfully rejuvenating but I had felt alive. The moment just before dawn broke, with the impending life bearing rays of sunshine peeking behind the majestic Tibetan mountains: unforgettable. And when that first ray of light basked my face, I was undeniably swept away in awe. Suddenly, the cold become secondary.

Graceful Elegance

The birds began to stir. Breeding season for the Black-necked crane takes place in spring. In winter, accompanied by their offspring, the crane community makes its migratory journey here to Napa Lake. Despite the safety of towering mountains and encouraging human communities, it is evident the diligence of watch adult cranes extend to its young. The flock stay close together in constant vigil for possible threats. Watching the birds over the week I was there, I did notice a certain regality in their demeanour. There is something unmistakably stately about these birds. Their walk is purposeful and elegant. Their interactions are equally graceful; there was nothing loud or boisterous about these animals. They carry themselves with utmost grace. And with any royal presence, I approached these birds of heaven with respect and they allowed me to get close without taking flight. I was living the mystical.

Tourism Impact

Around us, the sightings of daily human activity began. Villagers went about their daily tasks, quietly around the birds who seemed oblivious to their human neighbours. And as the sun rose, the ice gave and cluster of Crane families go about their morning feed. Sadly, the moment was interrupted by the humdrum of a bus loaded with tourists. If an animal is treated as a tourist attraction and not approached with respect the animal is likely to create distance of safety. I saw more than once alarmed birds fly away much to the disappointment of overly eager tourists.

Tourist development is evident in Shangri-La, understandably since the name change was spurred to encourage economic development, fuelled further by tourist yuan. Locally, China has begun the Great Western Development Strategy to open up the western regions of China, including Shangri-La and Lake Napa. This means new expressways and power lines cut across the mountainous region allowing tourists to experience the wilderness in greater comfort than before. Unregulated mass tourism can put a strain on a biodiversity in an area.

Thankfully, to date, Lake Napa still maintains a lot of the minimalism of an agricultural community but there are signs of change that the tourist money and subsidies bring to the area. Only time will tell how this will impact these migratory birds of heaven.

Author: Reehana Shihab

Editor: Tim Plowden