Our discovery of Borneo began in Sarawak. Sarawak is one of the two Malaysian states that make up the island Borneo. Sarawak sits on the northwest end of Borneo with borders to Sabah in the northeast and Kalimantan (which is part of Indonesia) to the south. We were in seventh heaven as we encountered endangered species right on our doorstep during our stay at Bako National Park in Sarawak. The promise of lush tropical rainforest filled our journey with anticipation. The array of plant and animal species more than satisfied our expectations during our short but eventful trip there.
Borneo is one of the most important places on the planet for biodiversity. This island, shared by three countries is also home to one of the largest tropical forests in South East Asia. Its flora includes as many as 18,000 different types of flowering plants and trees. There are 420 species of birds, all endemic to Borneo. There are also 221 species of mammals which call this region home. In 2007 alone, scientists discovered as many as 124 new species in Borneo’s rainforest. This makes Borneo an important place for biodiversity research.
Getting to Bako National Park
The only way to access Bako National Park is by boat. The lush jungle greets you as the sandstone cliffs stood majestically ushering me to my home for the next few days. We quickly sighted macaques and bearded pigs milling around totally unperturbed by human presence. Bako National Park has been a protected area since 1957 and is Sarawak’s oldest and smallest national park. Despite its size, Bako is renowned for its diversity of flora. Here botanists can enjoy as many as 25 types of vegetation over seven ecosystems; including the mangrove forest as well as beach and grassland vegetation. What brought us here, however, was the hope of seeing the endangered proboscis monkeys.
Orientation
We ventured out at noon. The weather was mild. In the shade of trees, the gentle sound of waves nearby together with cheeky macaques as a greeting party, made for a setting of being in another world. Venturing no further than 200m away from our doorstep, we excitedly sighted a group of proboscis monkeys. The alpha male sat dominantly on his perch on the tree, his harem nearby. Four females were attending to a few infants sitting in contentment. We watched and marvelled as the troop traveled in unison from tree to tree. It was a great ending to our first day at Bako National Park.
The next morning, we met our guide, Nizam of Bako Nature & Wildlife Expedition, who informed us that there are approximately 300 proboscis monkeys in Bako. These endangered primates can live up to 35 years within two possible structures: a harem or a bachelor group. A harem can consist of seven to nine females, their young and one alpha male. By the time juvenile males reach three years, the alpha male chases them out of the territory to maintain his dominance over the harem.
Proboscis Monkeys
These ousted youngsters form a bachelor group of 10-15 until they mate and form their own harem. Mating season takes place between March and April and bachelors will fight to gain the favours of a female. We chanced upon a harem group and watched it move slowly to nearby trees, the dominant male leading the way with cautious young following behind. Nearby their boisterous macaque neighbours were having a domestic fight, scurrying from one tree to another. The leader of a bachelor group sat feeding as he basked in the afternoon sun. He was bellowing a constant call, which sounded like that of a solitary cow. Within minutes, we noticed movement. Members of the bachelor group were returning the call and congregating in the nearby trees.
Flying Lemur
We ventured off the trails to find a flying lemur perched on a tree trunk. Flying lemurs are nocturnal creatures. It’s easy to miss this mammal, its fur easily blends into the colour of the tree. The lemur clutched quietly onto its young as it wrapped itself onto part of the tree trunk. In this jungle pythons and sea eagles are the lemur’s natural predators. Therefore, the lemur stays off the ground to minimise the risk of attack.
Bearded Pig
A couple of guided groups were ferried in whist we were there. All armed with cameras looking up in awe at this quiet slumbering creature. Here as guests, most of the tourists are observant of the basic rules: to approach animals quietly and to respect space and boundaries. Nearby, the bearded pig is unimpressed by the human fascination with its lemur neighbour and continues to dig through the earth in search of earthworms and edible vegetation.
Silver Leaf Monkey
We moved on to the mangrove area where the silver leaf monkeys were quietly feeding high in the trees. This mammal’s diet consist mainly of sea hibiscus leaves, flowers and seeds. Unlike the macaque, silver-leaf monkeys are shy and not as tolerant of human presence. We approached slowly and respectfully. In sight was a group of eight consisting of adults, infants and juveniles. We saw a single infant crawl closely to the mother, or so we thought. Adult females seem to share the responsibility of looking after the baby. The infant passes through the hands of at least three willing nannies, all vying for contention as mum. Unlike the adult, with its silver coat, the young silver leaf monkey are orange, which makes for easy spotting.
Bako National Park at Night
When light took flight, Bako stayed alive with the awakening of the nocturnal. We saw the lemur from the afternoon finally stir, groomed its young, climb further up the tree before taking flight. It glided effortlessly into the night, young tucked safely in tow. We proceeded on towards the jetty. The mangrove grew around the jetty and was spotted with fireflies. In the darkness, it had seemed like silhouettes of Christmas trees studded with twinkling lights. Not to be outdone, the sky in all its expansive glamour was also twinkling in style.
The evening ended with a guided night walk. Armed with headlamps we followed a trail where we observed frogs, numerous species of stick insect, scorpions and spiders. Here your senses are heightened: visually compromised under low light, you tend to pay careful attention to the sounds around you including the melody of frogs, crickets and owls. We passed a Rufous-backed kingfisher calmly sitting on a branch over the trail. These birds are found in lowland forests on a low perch hunting for insects or frogs.
Snakes
Another animal we came across which had positioned itself on top of palm foliage directly over the boardwalk was a bronze-back snake. Our guide tells us that these snakes drop on unsuspecting hikers. So it is ill-advised to walk these trails alone at night! Further along the trail we chanced upon another snake: a male Wagler’s Pit Viper wrapped around a branch and lying patiently waiting for its prey.
Proboscis Monkey Antics
Time seem to pass slowly at Bako but the final day soon came. It was an eventful two days with more than satisfactory sightings. And as if to say goodbye, a harem of proboscis monkeys went about their morning feed not far from our accommodation. The troop slowly made its way back to the forest passing us calmly with treats of jumps and acrobatics. The juvenile monkeys led the way, the alpha male watched closely behind while the infant received its first lessons on branch navigations.
The young scaled cautiously, perching speculatively at the edge of a branch before leaping off to a nearby tree. When in doubt, it was egged on by its juvenile siblings and adult females. It was heartwarming to watch our primate relatives display such affection and attention to their young as we would. As they disappeared into the lush foliage of the forest, we could feel our time in Bako coming to a close.
Bako Sandstone Cliffs
While waiting for my boat back to the mainland, we ventured to the west end of the beach to view the impressive sandstone cliffs of Bako. The sandstone cliffs towered over us, old as time, the surfaces carved by the tides creating interesting lines and colours. Bako National Park is an absolute treat of nature’s offerings and if you plan to visit Sarawak try to include it in your itinerary.
Author: Reehana Shihab
Editor: Tim Plowden